Barolo

We left lake Como without any accommodation for the night but had our direction planned. We headed South West on the autostrada (cruise control holding us at a steady 120km/ph, 10 less than the limit) past Milan and down to Alba before heading towards the close by Barolo. This is up there with one of the best wine regions in the world apparently and you could see why as you made your way through the windy roads surrounded by several hundred year old red wine vines. Green hills scattered with quaint little towns. We spent an hour or so driving around and pulling into any Agriturismo (farm accommodation) we drove past. We lucked out a bit and the weather fast became poor so we pulled over in a town called La Morra. As the rain got heavier we found a wine bar and dived in. The nice old fella there pouring the drops sorted us out with some accommodation for night and a glass of local Barolo red excellence.

 After knocking that down the hatchet we headed down the road to our farm accom for the night. The old nonna didn't speak a word of English or understand it but luckily our Italian had improved greatly by this point so she showed us to our room and then plated up some meats, cheeses and wine for us. That night we travelled the short trip back to Barolo and ate at a little restaurant there. Very handy feed as we had come to expect. The next morning we woke to  a surprise. It had snowed all night which is very unusual for April. We packed up the car and headed for the coast leaving the snow peppered hills of beautiful Barolo behind. If you love your vino this is a place you could spend a week easily. Maybe with a bike. 

Lake Como

After the first drive on busy foreign roads we were pleased to arrived and relax. What we didn't realise was that our hostel was in the middle of a national park accessible by foot only. We left the big bags in the boot and trekked up the hill, through the woods to the very cool Eco Hostel Respau. This place is an old stone building perched up on a hill in the middle of the lush green park. We spent the afternoon checking out the small town of Como on the banks of its water mass namesake.

The view from up near our hostel

We caught a 45min boat ride up the lake checking out all the luxurious dwellings bordering its shores. The pizzas and gelato in Como that day were also memorable. Later that evening we walked 10 minutes from our hostel, up through the park for a great view over the town and lake. The next day we jumped back into the V-Dub and got driving around the lake. The road on the less populated side of the lake which joins Como to Bellagio for the majority of the distance accommodates one car comfortably.... Two, not so much. This was my first euro driving experience.

traffic pic

Rhi waiting as we cross the lake on the ferry

Changing gears more than blinking and tensing up as we passed large inconvenient 4wd's, trucks and busses coming in the other direction. We finally arrived to the gobstopping Bellagio village. Look at the pics as words cant really describe this town at then the drive back along the other side of the lake. Lets just say it was hard to keep my eyes on the road, so will did pull over several times to check out Mr Clooney's holiday area of choice. Its an amazing place and was hard to leave.

Bellagio

Milano

We arrived in the leather capital around the middle of the day and after dropping our bags, we headed for the Doumo centre. The basilica and surrounding shopping areas were a sight to behold but repetitive and most shops are out of middle class peoples price range by a margin. After strolling around aimlessly we set our sights on a well known aperitif. We strolled through the large castle at the end of the shopping strip and through one of the cities impressive parks.

We arrived at a hip Melbourne looking suburb and sat down for handy cocktails and buffet. The next day we explored more of the expensive shopping displays, with little to no people exploring their shelves. Later we found our way to the normal budget streets and the famous Peck food palace. Later I found an English pub just at the right time as Rhi eyed down a couple of affordable retail palaces. After a frothy and bit of footy we met up with Fran (a local lass that visited Perth for studies last year) and she took us to the Milan soccer stadium and basilica which holds 'the last supper' painting. After that she cooked us up some first grade pasta and got very excited about her next trip back to Oz later this year. The next morning we caught a bus out to Milan airport and picked up our black Volkswagen Golf and headed north.

Firenze

 We rolled in late afternoon and headed straight out into the skinny streets of Firenze for a feed. We decided on Za Za's, a cool restaurant that came recommended from the hostel host. Although I love my pasta, by this point of our Italian trip I was looking forward to some good meat dishes in the North. I got just what I was after this particular evening. Peposo is a rich casserole (yes mum) dish consisting of big chunky bits of beef stewed in a strong red wine, pepper sauce. One of my favourite dishes so far. The wild boar ragu Rhi had wasn't to shab either. The next day we were up early hitting up the main square and shopping streets. We wandered over the famous bridge full of jewellery shops and up to Michelangelo's piazza where we got the best view of the entire metro. We then made our way back into the city and joined the long line to see big Dave! There are many things in the world that in terms of size are exacerbated by television and photography which can leave you a little surprised when you visit them in the flesh.

 Michel's marble statue of David is one on the contrary. You walk into the museum and entertain the other areas such as the small but impressive musical instrument display but eventually cant resist and make your way around the corner. You look down the darkish long hallway to the big fella, lit with natural light from above. The things on display along that hallway must be some of the most wasted works in the world. They could lace the hallway with naked local lasses and you still wouldn't take your eyes of Dave. Bloody amazing! Ignore the two security peoples attempting to halt your camera antics and just slyly shot away. That night we discovered an awesome aperitif just metres away from our hostel. $10AUD will get you any drink (bottle of Bulmers cider please and of course a strawberry cocktail for Rhi) and access to a seriously extensive and good food buffet. Pasta, breads, dips, meats, chicken wings, salads, pizza fruit and on this particular dolce night, some sweet slices. Go back as many times as you can. We tried finding better versions of this Northern Italian tradition the next night but couldn't and returned to 'Kitsch' with its mouth watering food and cider accompanying its cool atmos! That brought our (first) visit to Firenze to an end. I will miss its swell small streets until the day I return. MAH

Lipari and Aeolian Islandsh

hydrofoil (inter island transport) at full tilt

From Malta we ferried back over and bussed all the way up to the North Eastern corner of Sicily. From there a short boat ride over to the most developed of the Aeolian islands, Lipari. Not a lot bigger than Rottnest this cool island has a population of 11k thought its rolling green hills. Not far down the main street was our lodging at Diana Brown's (Lovely Saffa) B&B and we settled in before heading out to her recommendation for dinner.

main street through Lipari

mmmmm

my fav childhood entertainment

Some really nice, yet very rich food. The next day we hired a scooter and did a full lap of the island. We packed a continental roll and stopped for that overlooking the surrounding islands and for a coffee in a quite little bar where there was heated game of Italian cards beginning. It was great to get a good dose of fresh air through us on the scooter and there was little traffic so it was a good place to get back on the road.

trusty number 55 at our lunch stop

Definitely one of my favourite days yet on the trip. The next day we headed to the neighbouring island of Vulcano. Again, cos we enjoyed it so much we grabbed a scooter and explored the island including various look outs and a climb up to a dormant crater. The smell and sulphur steam would suggest not so dormant. Early the next morning Rhi's kidney pain went from bad to worse to we had a different morning, checking her into the local hospital. We were pleasantly surprised by how good the speed and quality of care was.

Rhi enjoying her free accom

 The doctor spoke great English and whisked Rhi up to his ward within no time. Over the next four days I spent my time visiting Rhi and watching the opening weekend of AFL so I couldn't complain. Very relaxing. Rhi's Italian improved during her stay as she made friends and foe with the hospital staff that were on the whole great. She checked out of there and we jumped on a ferry that night up to Naples. I was the big winner in Lipari. MAH

amphitheatre overlooking Lipari's coast

my walk to the hospital - postcard

by South Italy

Malta

Our comfy steed in & out of Malta

The ferry pulled up into the port at about 9pm so we eventually got a taxi after arguing with a cocky local and making deals with an Sicilian couple to split the cab. Eventually we got to our hostel and got the tips from our friendly host before crashing. The next day we walked up and down the nice foreshores, small shopping streets and then caught boats and buses to other cities on the island.

Its a funny place after just being in Italy. This commonwealth country has the shopping and culture of London, architecture of Greece and Italy's weather. This all mixed in with the local Maltese (Latin orientated language). If you take a 5 minute look at the history of Malta it is equivalent to the girl that's been around the block in terms of ownership and ruling. Everyone has had a crack over the past couple thousand years. That night we walked the foreshore and then sat down at a great Maltese restaurant (Gululu) for some rabbit (Maltese love it) ravioli and a bottle of red.

foreshore by day..

by night.

The second day we visited the most renowned markets in the area. Very impressive gathering right next to the ocean littered with their cute little colourful fishing boats. From their we attempted and failed to visit the blue cave and temples (apparently some of the oldest in the world). The ocean was to rough for the cave and then we were to late for the temple. Oh well. We enjoyed getting to know Holly, a fellow aussie we met at the hostel who is from Sydney and on her way home from 2 years in London town. Was a great little visit to the little island. Will have to return during summer one day to enjoying all the cliff jumping and other aqua activities. MAH

The view from the cake shop in Mdina

sunday markets portside

Sicily: Catania

6 hours on train (part of which we were on a ferry, in the train.YEP!) we travelled down to Catania, a large city on the east side of Sicily. Our hostel was a funky, colourful joint that would have drug takers climbing up the walls. The staff there were great and let us in on all the towns secrets, arancini's, horse meat and markets those that most pricked up taste buds. So the next morning we headed out into it all. The food markets blew us away. Two weeks we have now been in Italy and still yet we are to see one of the real big markets that you accompany with the country. Wait no more! The Catania food markets were a major shock to the senses. You will see from the photos how colourful and active this place was. Bright coloured fruit and veggies, meat still being carved from the bone and sea creatures still moving in their containers. All this will very very vocal locals trying to sell it all for next to nothing. I was cooking that night so equipped myself with 1 fennel, large bag of cherry tom's, large bag of parsley, 1 lime, 1 lemon, bulk rocket and lettuce and a red onion whilst parting with about 4 aussie dollars.

 The fresh meat brought the spending up a tad but who wouldn't pay money for swordfish staked freshly off the spine? The next day we trekked up north to the beautiful ocean viewing town of Taormina.

Cool little shops on the main street and scenic island resorts on the coast make this little place another summer vacation spot for the financially comfortable. Rhi turned the left over swordie fishy into a nice burger for me and we got a good bunch of shuteye knowing what what coming the following day. We had inquired to the awesome hostel staff at CC-Ly hostel (recommended!) about cooking coerces in the city. There was not any viable, one day options so the hostel went one better. One of the staff organised their talented friend to give us a full day course at $30aud (bargain). Rhi, I and a camera armed chick from China signed up and were out of there at 9am with the chef, her friend and the hostel host. We spent the next couple hours walking around the famous Catania fish markets getting all our ingredients. We returned to the hostel kitchen area at about 11am and cooked all the way through to 3pm when we collapsed around the table covered in 4 different traditional anchovy dishes, a pasta and a caponata (sweet and sour warm veggies). That pretty much did it for Catania. A very cool foodie city.